12.09.2012

material girl


these are my new comfy Do Everything work clothes. they've been worn trekking to the subway five o'clock in the morning, at the ballet barre five o'clock at night, and the home bar straight after. happy work, all, deserving of something more than beat up jeans and pilly yoga pants.

although i already had leggings on the brain, i must place the 80s vibe of said leggings squarely on the shoulders of mood. hits from that pop-piest of eras were blasting the day i strolled in, and i gave in completely to the invitations from a-ha! and duran duran. there was no other choice. the object of my desire was a pair of forever 21 ikat leggings, bought years ago before they were trendy (i have a knack for picking up the one non-trendy thing in stores before it is trendy. TASTEMAKER WALKING, YO). but screw shopping for RTW. i had the maniacal serger and a city block worth of jersey, what was stopping me from knocking them off?


elastic, mostly. the f21 leggings had the usual band of elastic 'round the waist, producing the ever pleasing muffintop effect we women love so dearly. good lord. more on that later. i consoled myself with the inevitably lumpy result by picking out three of the craziest prints i could find, with the invaluable help of my good friend marlon, a gent who works (quite hard, i might add) in stock. it was hotter than a bananarama summer in the joint, the sheer amount of shoppers increasing the degrees, but marlon was happy to wrangle bolt upon bolt of goodness down while waiting for a free cutting crew. marlon, i said, so my idea is to photoshop myself in five pairs of leggings like I'm hanging out with myself, punctuating my words with a doofy pose here and there. he gave me a fist bump and we were off.

we were having a hard time finding five patterns that wanted to play in the same photoshoot, stalling at three. marlon! i yelled, the tunes sinking ever deeper into my brain, i need a flashdance sweatshirt to tie it all together! he nodded solemnly. yes. yes you DO. Magic Marlon deposited the bolts on a cutting table and we marched up to knits. the obvious and immediate choice was this grey sweatshirt knit complete with purple sparkle sheen. i'm sorry eighties throwback, did you just hop into a deLorean and pop into existence while we were in jerseys? i think you did.

as marlon bid me adieu and left me in the capable hands of michael, we discussed the tunes. you should be here when the Snoop Dogg / NWA station is on, michael breathed, not without some horror. i raised my eyebrows. for real? uncensored? i wonder what I'd gravitate to in that scenario....


while we're on the subject of horror, hell, while we're on the subject of the Doggfather, can we talk about the booty on the ikat pair? not my best pattern placement. the front, she is not much better:


EGADS. long slouchy sweater on this pair.

returning home with my bounty, i didn't give myself time to think, i just laid my RTW leggings down on a piece of paper and traced my one (ONE! HALLELUJAH FOR LEGGINGS!) pattern piece. it took a muslin to get the waist height right, and by "muslin" i mean the red and blue pair. my neverending refusal to do the safety dance that is a toile actually helped me in this case: i had to finish the pair, as it was part of the project. but the waist was too low, and my overflowing stash of elastic apparently existed only in my brain...so i used the excess yardage to create a tall fold over band, thinking it would make them somewhat wearable...


and holy animotion! a comfy waistband! WITH NO MUFFINTOP!! my obsession growing, i lunged for the rest of the jersey and finished all three pairs in mere hours. the midnight oil was already burning, no bed in sight for me, so i grabbed an RTW sweatshirt, traced that too, and clacked away on the serger.

i've worn the animal printish pair so much i'm in danger of becoming a one hit wonder. the costume department at work is in love with them, especially the waistband, and i'm actually going to attempt to make some for them. GET ME. i can see sewing for others in jersey, it's just so easy. (she said blithely. don't you be asking me for no leggings, Hot Mama. oh all right but you have to give me your hip measurement.)
have you worked with jersey? how do you feel about the stuff? if you haven't yet, run, don't walk, yah mo be there for you, this wonder stuff is nothing to be afraid of. it is the don henley of fabrics giving you forgiveness all OVER the place.

this romp through the 80s was made using my monthly fabric "allowance" as part of the Mood Sewing Network.

77 comments:

  1. I now have the urge to listen to Salt-N-Pepa and TLC. Thank you. I think. =)

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  2. I don't have a serger but I want to make these now!

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  3. We're totally booty sistas. HELLO NURSE! Wait... OMG, I should be asleep right now.

    Just so you know, my husband loves the delorean reference, seeing as he graduated in '86.

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  4. They don't disappoint lol I was waiting to see them as soon as you told me about the placement .. They are super fun ...

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    1. the "black hairy hole" is not quite as bad as i thought... but maybe i'm just growing accustomed to it. no, it's bad.

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  5. I think I found you blog through the Mood thing. I've been really enjoying it. These leggings are adorable. Love the photoshoot.

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  6. I love working with jersey - it's my preferred fabric - I don't get why people are so scared of it. It's not quite as easy to handle as a woven cotton or wool, but the results are almost always wearable (I almost said "always", but then I remembered a few disasters) - and the fitting is so simple. Also comfy to wear! I love my jersey dresses. Win!

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  7. Oh my gosh, your photos are so freakin' awesome! And of course, the leggings, too. I need some more jersey leggings. Why oh why, didn't I think to make them in funky prints? Love that fold over waistband. I could definitely rock a pair of these right now.

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  8. Ohhh, the waistband is such a great idea, like the ones on "yoga" pants. I have a Jalie leggings pattern and I think I will try making them with a waistband like yours! They look fabulous by the way.

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  9. Love the leggings -- and the photoshop, heeheehee! And I really like your waistband solution! I don't enjoy working with the roll (of jersey, that is), but have gotten used to it, especially since my current goal involves the cutting and sewing of knit fabrics....

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    1. now that you say it-- this jersey didn't roll one bit on me, and that's what i used to hate about it too! i wonder if it's better quality or something?

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  10. I love your leggings! You know, that deep waistband makes them the perfect yoga pants - no tummy popping out during a backwards bend! (Not that I would know, I mean, that has never happened to me, ahem...)

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  11. After the Holiday madness subsides, I will be pulling out the Bernina serger I bought 15+ years ago and trying my hand at sewing some knits. Have been pondering the idea lately but your legging have pushed me over the edge. Thank you for the inspiration. Any specific tips on that waistband? Just a wider waist band sewn onto the legging top? Cut cross grain? Is there such a thing with knits?

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    1. just make sure the waistband is cut with the stretch going width wise-- otherwise you won't be able to get them on! two of these pairs were 4 way stretch, i think that's what it's called, so i just chose the stretchier grain. and yes, just an extra wide waistband, but my waistband is folded over and then sewn in, that way if you fold the waistband down, you still see the right side of the material.

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  12. I think I may now be blind but it was totally worth it!! Amazing leggings, and the prints!?! I thought I had lucked out when Marie of A Stitching Odyssey sent me some incredible Aztec print jersey, but now I know I need to get myself to NY sharpish. They look absolutely smokin hot on you! (and I'm kind of relieved you mentioned that the grey marl actually does have a purple sheen, and that it wasn't just my eyes going fuzzy!)

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    1. ha, i love it!!!! and i do believe i remember crying out in rage when i saw that aztec jersey.

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  13. Those leggings are amazing! I really need to try making some this winter.

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  14. sister oona, you just made my day.. and that was one rather shitty day, as i've spent past 28 hours in a bus, stuck in the snow, doing nothing but being stuck in the snow, trying to stay calmed and everything.. i just got home, and all the colors and prints of kalkatroona made me smile again (not the crazy hysteric i'm-not-scared-and-this-makes-a-great-story-for-grandchildren smile i had all day and night, but more world-is-a-wonderful-place smile)..

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    1. sister mokosha, making your shitty day better is a most excellent prize. i hope you're having three layer cake and whiskey.

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  15. Love them!I've been meaning to make some for ages, these have proper inspired me now!

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  16. So awesome! My fav pair of leggings had a band just like that, but I wore them to death. You've inspired me to think about attempting to remake them. LOVE the photoshopped images too, I had a hard time reading the post b/c I kept scrolling down for more photos!!

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  17. As always, both entertaining and jealousy inducing. The waistband is brilliant!

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  18. Well, now I need a new playlist (I'll call it "Oona-tastic"). Also, I need some spandex.

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  19. I'm basically wearing the exact same outfit as I type this!! Although my leggings are of the muffin-top (and american apparel) variety. Boo. Your waistband solution is genius and I will be stealing it. FYI.
    Love your photos. Makes me SO happy.

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  20. Awesome photo shoot! Serious talent, girl. Your pics are so fun! I have some serious Booty Envy right now. This post makes me want to shake it to some old skool uncensored Snoop. Coming right up! It ain't no fun if the homies can't have none.

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  21. Love them all, and I am seriously going to copy your waistband!

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  22. OH, gosh, I love that waist band. I've totally got a muffin-top, even without the elastic waist band, and always need help in that area. You just 'copied' a pair of leggings you already had?

    One day, I declare, I too will be able to copy something I already have and make more! Yes, I will learn!

    Those are freaking awesome, Nurse Oona.

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  23. What beautiful leggings Oona. I love leggings and live in them during the winter months. I'd love to create some like yours. How wide is your waistband?

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    1. thanks faye! the waistband is cut on the fold, to match the width of the waist of the leggings. i did mine about 10 inches tall and folded it over, so the attached waistband is a folded piece that you then fold over again if you want low waisted... does that make sense?

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  24. Well now everyone knows the most delicious part of the muffin is the top :o) But they are UNCOMFORTABLE. Kudos for your foldover waistband innovation. These leggings look oh-so comfy and awesome! I loooooove those fabrics.
    Oh and yeah deffo take some pics wearing the zingy knit top I'd love to see you in it!! At some point I will get off my arse also and take pix wearing your skirt :o)

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  25. BOOOOOOOOOOTAYYYYY!! Lol!!

    I love these!! I can just imagine you brightening up a rehearsal room full of black t-shirts and jeans ;o)

    Also, I have to Mood shop with you. I love that you know people by name and specialty!

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    1. i thought of you when i was putting green glow on the bootay!!!

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  26. You are indeed QUEEN of many things. I can't choose which impressed me more - the hot new leggings or your Photoshop skills (I geek out in many places). Mostly, I just love it when I hear I'm not alone on the crash-test-dummy garment thing, in place of the carefeully planned toile.

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  27. Jersey is fabulous, especially with a serger/overlocker. You can whip stuff up so damn fast, and so forgivingly. (The reason why I'm in love with my overlocker. *le sigh*)

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  28. These are awesome (and so are your photoshop skillz!) I've been meaning to make some leggings forever and I think you just showed me how to never top a muffin again!

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  29. Whoah! I thought you were Debbie Allen from Fame at first glimpse, loved her! love these killer tights, muffin top issues solved, brilliant. Your top just finishes things off brilliantly. I bet you can remove your bra as good as or if not better than Jennifer Beal? I can just see you doing that thigh rubbing dance. Killer PS skills in da house.

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    1. ah, debbie!! FAME COSTS!!! and yes, i'm aces at the bra thing. but it is admittedly easier with the itty bitties.

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  30. Super fierce! Love them. I dig jersey. Not just sewing but wearing it too.

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  31. The best comfy clothes are the clothes that look like they came straight out of an early 80s music video. I love this and I'm just imagining how bright and obnoxious (in the best way possible, I mean) you must look in the wild and it's making me very happy.

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    1. obnoxious is sincerely the best way to put it. i am HELLA bratty when i wear these!!

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  32. That fold-over band is a great idea to reduce muffin-topping. I'm taking notes!

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  33. I'm loving the foldover band, too. Maybe I can be talked into leggins. Maybe. For me, it's memories of the 90s, and there are many reasons why I don't want to go back there. But if I could recreate the dream that my fluffy bright green turtleneck never really was, maybe I would... Come to think of it, now that I remember my turtleneck, maybe the dream of it is why I love my bright green sweater...
    So, as you can see, all this is not exactly my style. But it's yours. Enjoy it.

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  34. Wow these are fantastic, fold over waistband is brilliant! I have worked with jersey in the past, unfortunately my serger is sitting collecting dust due to it needing a good re-thread, and alas.. I just have not had the time to sit and fiddle with it. I LOVE the sweat shirt too!!

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  35. Sometimes I just love you and your photoshopping skills SO MUCH. These are EPIC ensembles - those patterns, that sweatshirt! It's all completely marvelous. I am totally curious what you would gravitate to with Snoop Dogg in the background. I myself would flock to sequins and neon. Thoughts?

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  36. I love everything about this post! You look smashing! And you've got flabby photoshopping skills-I just love the photos of you hanging out with yourself a la 80's style!

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  37. First time I bought jersey I was TERRIFIED. Then I used it, and just thought...is that it? I keep thinking each time that suddenly it's going to become a horror story, but it hasn't yet.
    Also, I'll have to get out my serger and work out how to use it during the Christmas-New Year break. Stupid factory second bought on ebay has no instructions! Gah!

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    1. i know, right??

      my elna came with instructions, rage inducing instructions that told you how to do something on page 10 but then informed you later on in page 20 that you should never do page 10 WITHOUT THIS IMPORTANT INFORMATION. i learned more about my serger from a library book than from the nstructions... i think it was called serger secrets, or serging made easy, it's amazing how similar these scary machines are.

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  38. Jersey scares the bejeezus out of me. I have made exactly one ponti skirt, and that was hella easy because it's almost like cotton, it's so thick. I need to get a 4 spool over locker as the antique 3 spooler ain't doing me any favours and then I am SO THERE with the stretchy action.

    I don't know when I got scared of knits. I used to sew crappy knit things all the time when I was in my youth, before overlocker inheritance. Older, wiser, scareder I guess.

    Hot photos, lady! You really do make me smile :)

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    1. you've reminded me i need to hack up a boxy ponte dress i made (when i was younger, stupider, ignoranter).tis nothing to be afraid of. what's the worst that could happen...

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  39. I'm pretty sure that foldover band (and your fab print choices) could cure all leggings of their legging-y woes. I'm so impressed with your brilliant ideation, your photoshop skills, and the fact that you have a serger. I sew with jersey all the time on my regular machine because it is so deliciously drapey and forgiving, but a tiny part of my brain keeps yelling at me that I should stop blowing through my knit stash and save it for when I have a serger.

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    1. i can't believe your perfect mind doesn't cry every time you don't serge a jersey seam. FOR SHAME.

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  40. As the song goes "The chills that you spill up my back Keep me filled with
    Satisfaction when we're done, Satisfaction of what's to come. I couldn't ask for another" That's what popped in my head as soon as I saw this post.

    Omg,5th picture down, if you had not mention I would not have notice. You are too much. :-)

    I love fold over waistbands, the are awesome. I have an almost awesome jersey maxi skirt, almost because it needs to be a size or two smaller. I have to be careful when I wear it because, one false move the skirt is around my ankles. That happened, luckily at night outside my place.

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    1. i didn't notice it till i looked at the shot! TOTAL CHER MOMENT.

      shrink the skirt in hell hot wash???

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  41. Thank you for making my 1988 day. That's all I have to say. If Kasey Kasem was doing a top 10 blog posts ever, this would definitely make it.

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    1. aaaah, kasey!!! do you think that was really his natural voice?

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  42. I love the photo where all three Oona's are smirking. What a fun idea!

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  43. These are awesome! In a really big haired 80's way.

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  44. Great minds etc etc etc as I just was thinking about making leggings last week, I have a few pairs that I've bought from online (No time or free hands to sew) recently and noticed their inner seam... no side seams, and without a muffin top would be GREAT! You are such a whizz on the serger babes!

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  45. Fun post! Fun leggings!

    I'm definitely a jersey knit lover and the best investment I've made so far - was in my serger.

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  46. :D You crack me up! I love the knits, but my me-made leggins (boring black ones, I'm afraid) do have the muffin top feature. I need to try your idea. The leggins with flashdance top look awesome!

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  47. I was too much in a rush to leave a message the first time I saw this post of awesomeness, but hats off to you Oona, love em all and don't blame you for wanting to hang out with yourself in these ace pics. I've made a number of pairs of leggings now ( ooh la la ) mainly running ones, but like the rolled waistband idea! Super comfy.
    Oh yes, I came back just to relive the experience and felt rude not telling you so and freeloading off you for a second time!!

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i thankya truly for taking the time to comment, i love a good conversation-- and hope you know my thanks are always implied, if not always written!